Edelweiss Village and Resort in Golden, B.C. was originally built by the Canadian Pacific Railway between 1910 and 1912 to house some of its Swiss guides and their families. The six chalets on the property have since been restored and opened to guests.Supplied
Golden, a mountain destination just west of the Alberta-British Columbia border, was born a railway town. In the early 1880s, a survey crew working on the Canadian Pacific Railway’s expansion through the mountains set up camp in the area. And when the rail was done, Golden emerged as another type of base camp: Home to Swiss mountain guides, which the CPR imported for the benefit of their hotel guests. Back then, the CPR was in the tourism business, too.
And so the CPR, between 1910 and 1912, built six chalets near Golden to house some of its Swiss guides and their families year-round. Walter Feuz purchased the cluster of homes, known as Edelweiss Village, and their 50-acre perch from the CPR decades later. The Swiss guide’s descendants cared for the abandoned buildings after Feuz and his wife, Johanna, passed away in the 80s. By 2022, the National Trust for Canada placed the Edelweiss Village on its list of Top 10 Endangered Places. The exteriors were weathered, but not dilapidated. A non-profit formed to preserve their historical significance, if only as digital models. The owners searched for a suitable buyer.
Since then, the buildings have been restored and renovated into swish chalets, blending West Elm aesthetic with mountain history.
The interiors of the chalets are quiet, cozy and bright. The buildings reflect what the CPR of 1910 thought Swiss architecture looked like, rather than Swiss architecture itself.Supplied
Why you should visit
The six chalets, which overlook Golden, are part of Canada’s mountaineering glory days. The buildings are unique, if only by accident: They reflect what the CPR of 1910 thought Swiss architecture looked like, rather than Swiss architecture itself. Today, the chalets are named after the Swiss families who guided and explored in the area. The interiors are quiet, cozy and bright.
The Edelweiss Village lacks amenities generally associated with resorts. There’s no pool, hot tub or restaurant. But it works. The chalets have a cloistered peace about them. Nothing but a mountain view will do just fine, thanks. Some chalets lack televisions and guests are encouraged to unplug by storing their phones in a little wooden box near the entry. (Don’t worry. They don’t force it. The box has slits for charging cords to escape and the WiFi is speedy).
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, about 15 kilometres from Edelweiss Village, is a year-round reason to visit. It hosts downhill and Nordic skiing in the winter and a via ferrata, mountain biking and hiking when the snow melts.
The village is on the mountainside just north of the Trans-Canada Highway, three kilometres from downtown Golden.
Room for improvement
Guests are instructed to take out the garbage and recycling before they leave, Airbnb-style. Chores before checkout takes away from the boutique hotel vibe.
The chalets opened this fall and the owners are still working out the kinks. Some problems will be easy to fix: The bedrooms lack garbage bins and hooks for towels; the entryway needs some pegs or hangers for outerwear. A place to dry damp ski boots, hiking boots and gear would be clutch. The wraparound decks have unobstructed views of the Purcell Mountains (and a Petro-Can) but would benefit from some chairs and a barbecue.
The decks at the chalets have unobstructed views of B.C.’s Purcell Mountains.Supplied
Other beige flags: If you’re looking for a soaker tub or perfectly placed electrical outlets, book somewhere else. The chalets have stovetops but not ovens. (What, were you planning on baking a cake?) Toys like skis and bikes are not allowed in the chalets.
Montayne, the group that purchased the chalets, has expansion plans on the books that will broaden the village’s appeal. It hopes to build a Swiss spa, a Swiss deli, new cabins and a Great Hall, where the community and guests can gather. It has also pencilled in “Alpine experiences,” which would make it easier for tourists who want to explore the area but want a helping hand adventuring.
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
The not exploring the nearby mountain national parks, the chalets are perfect for curling up on the couch and taking in the natural surroundings just out the window.Supplied
I’m a Golden outdoor enthusiast, but the Chalet Aemmer was too perfect to leave. I alternated between curling up on the couch while reading a novel and curling up on the couch while staring out the window at the fall’s yellow foliage brightening the Dogtooth Range. The mountains were topped with snow.
But if you must leave, Golden is stuffed with options. Birdwatchers will find their flock at the Columbia Wetlands, about 26 kilometres from the village. The Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre is about 15 kilometres in the other direction.
Golden has all the mountain town staples: a mountain coaster, paragliding, golfing, heli-skiing, fishing, whitewater rafting and a GT race for grown-ups, to name a few. The town’s neighbours include six national parks: Yoho, Glacier, Banff, Jasper, Kootenay and Mount Revelstoke.
The take away
The Chalet Aemmer made me want to start writing a book, because I fancied myself coming back to work through the problems with the plot. But if a writers’ retreat isn’t your thing, it is easy to envision renting the chalets for a family reunion or wedding, a secluded get-away, or a golf trip with the girls.
Edelweiss Village is on the west end of Golden, just off Highway 1. The six chalets vary in capacity and price. Chalet Heimann, which has one bedroom and sleeps four, is the least expensive, averaging $661 per night. Edward and Walter Feuz’s former home is the most expensive of the bunch. It has four bedrooms, sleeps seven, and averages $836 per night. www.edelweissvillage.ca
The writer was a guest of Tourism Golden and Edelweiss Village + Resort. They did not review or approve the story before publication.