5 autumnal adventures in Campbell River, Canada

Ethereal old-growth rainforests. Vast, empty beaches strewn with driftwood. Dramatic cliffs and secluded coves. This is the scenery synonymous with Canada’s Vancouver Island. Located off the Pacific coast of British Columbia, this wild island is one and a half times the size of Wales. The Indigenous First Nations, who have called the island home for around 14,000 years, believe that by respecting nature, visitors grow closer to the temperate rainforest and its creatures.

The city of Campbell River, located on the island’s eastern shore, is a particular standout for its wildlife experiences  — especially in autumn, when vibrant fall foliage colours the landscape in gold and crimson hues and nature is on the move. Bears forage in old-growth rainforests, salmon leap from the water and breaching humpbacks greet the morning light. Here are five of the best wildlife adventures to enjoy the region.

1. Snorkel with the salmon

Located on the doorstep of one of the world’s most impressive salmon migrations, Campbell River proudly claims to be the ‘Salmon Capital of the World’ — a title supported by the unique opportunity to don a wetsuit, mask and fins to float among thousands of pink, chinook, chum and coho salmon. These hook-nosed natives return to the gravel beds at the upper reaches of the Campbell River to spawn every June to November, highlighting the vibrant life of this landscape. This abundant salmon population, and the namesake town’s resulting success as a commercial fishing hub, can be credited to Discovery Passage, which acts as a natural funnel, guiding migrating fish right to Campbell River’s doorstep.

Since 1985, Ocean Fix Dive Centre has monitored this remarkable migration and offers self-guided River Run tours, a unique Canadian experience that’s hard to find elsewhere. Starting from a logging bridge on the Gold River Highway and ending at Maple Street in Campbell River town, the float down the river takes around 30–40 minutes, weaving beneath bridges and under the watchful eye of bald eagles nesting in the surrounding Douglas firs. Spot curious harbour seals around the exit point — they will often congregate to suss out the new visitors to their waters. To snorkel like a pro, relax your breathing and float gently on your stomach with your legs straight and arms in front of you, trying to keep as still as possible.

2. Watch grizzlies in old-growth rainforest

Campbell River is the best access point to the Bute and Toba Inlets, which are home to packs of hulking grizzly bears who, during the autumn months, can often be spotted on the shoreline dredging up fat, unsuspecting salmon from the powerful currents. Grizzlies can be spotted in this area from August to October, with September and October being prime viewing season. For the best chances of spotting the bears from a safe distance in their natural habitat, embark on a guided excursion with the Homalco First Nation. Known as the ‘people of the fast-running waters’, they have been navigating these lands and waters since time immemorial.

Their half- and full-day tours take visitors to a variety of hotspots, including Algard Creek and Orford River, where the omnivores can be found foraging for berries and bivalves as they wait for the salmon run. Motor across the Bute Inlet, one of British Columbia’s premier whale-spotting channels, then join Indigenous guides on camouflaged platforms and towers to watch nature hard at work.

Alternatively, the Homalco’s sister tribe, the Klahoose First Nation, offers expeditions to nearby Toba Inlet, north of Desolation Sound. Here, travellers can cruise one of British Columbia’s most spectacular fjords to see waterfalls and untouched rainforest.

3. Observe orcas and dolphins

Many companies offer whale-watching excursions throughout British Columbia, but few have a history as distinguished as Eagle Eye Adventures. This carbon-neutral Campbell River wildlife tour operator was one of the first to be certified as a responsible whale watcher and its conservation initiatives actively support cetacean research efforts, including those of the World Cetacean Alliance and Marine Education and Research Society (MERS).

Eagle Eye Adventures offers two options for its six-hour tours: an exhilarating, pulse-quickening Zodiac tour, or a more relaxed covered-boat excursion, both of which plumb the depths of the Johnstone Strait for marine activity. Both are led by knowledgeable naturalists and marine biologists, offering the chance to spot orcas, humpbacks, porpoises, dolphins, sea lions and seals. Travellers might even catch sight of a bear cracking mussels and molluscs along the rugged shorelines of the islets surrounding Quadra Island.

4. Scan the horizon for humpbacks

While the names of the archipelagos and channels off Vancouver Island have changed on maps over the years, one thing remains constant: the narrow passages offer unrivalled spots to witness unforgettable marine life. This includes orcas, Pacific white-sided dolphins, sea lions and humpback whales. There are various tricks for seeking out the latter, including the use of onboard hydrophones to eavesdrop on whale calls.

For the best chances of spotting humpbacks, embark on a guided excursion with Campbell River Whale Watching Tours to visit the Discovery Islands and Johnstone Strait, where the sheltered coves of the Inside Passage act as harbours for marine life. Both six-hour and full-day tours are available on either covered vessel or Zodiac, and they offer nature experiences that are worlds apart from the touristy trips of Vancouver. Highlights abound, but Quadra and Cortes Islands, fringed by wild sandy beaches, are as worthy of telephoto camera shots as any tail fluke or flipper.

5. Take part in a fishing trip off the Tyee Spit

The Tyee Spit is a narrow strip of land that juts out into the waters off Campbell River. The rising sea fog may remind you of the Hebrides or the Irish coast, but the horizon of lofty, snow-polished mountains is unmistakably Canadian. Visitors can embark on various walking trails, such as the scenic three-mile route to Dick Murphy Park between the Discovery Passage and Campbell River estuary, but the main draw of the Tyee Spit is undeniably its fishing.

Named after the tyee — an Indigenous term for ‘chief’ or ‘leader’ that is used in the region to refer to a chinook salmon that weighs more than 30lbs — the Tyee Spit is a haven for anglers and sport fishing under the rules of the Tyee Club. Established in 1924, it’s one of British Columbia’s true, lesser-known treasures. Bait and barbed hooks are not allowed, and anglers must fish from a traditional rowboat, handling the nine-foot rod and reel on their own. Success relies on skill and finesse, but those who manage to land a 30-pounder will earn a place in the exclusive Tyee Club of British Columbia.