Family travel: YVR layover – a 24-hour Richmond adventure

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The phrase, “It’s not the destination, it’s the journey,” doesn’t apply to flying with kids. Early mornings, late nights, endless lineups, and a perpetual waiting game result in extremely tired, hungry, bored and overstimulated children – and parents. Nothing feels right in the brain or body; all we want to do is “get there.” But, with some planning and a slight mindset shift, what feels like an eternity of exhaustion can become a memorable adventure, especially if your layover is at Vancouver International Airport (YVR) in Richmond. 

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The YVR Canada Line station, located between the international and domestic terminals, makes exploring Richmond car-free easy, and kids 12 and under ride for free.

The Story Café is a hidden brunch gem, about a five-minute walk from Bridgeport Station. Portions are generous, and despite arriving hungry, my daughter Brooklyn and I were hard-pressed to finish our sweet crepes and savoury Titanic benny, served on house-made scones.

From the restaurant, take an Uber to Garry Point Park, beside the charming seaside village of Steveston. The picturesque waterfront park, with shoreline walking paths, expansive green spaces, a Japanese memorial garden, and sweeping views across the Salish Sea, is a fantastic place for kids to run freely and play outdoors. Brooklyn was particularly taken with the plethora of sun-bleached driftwood washed onto the sand, much of which had been formed into lean-to style forts. Garry Point’s location, an estuary where the Pacific Ocean and Fraser River meet, is a top spot for birdwatching and sunset photography. Kite flying is another popular activity, and we found a variety of colourful kites for sale at Splash Toys. The whimsical village boutique also features a wonderous selection of Jellycat plush toys, collectable figures, building sets, arts and crafts and STEM toys – parents be warned. 

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Set along the windswept shores of the Fraser River, the village of Steveston has a rich maritime history, with its economy flourishing in the early 20th century from commercial salmon fishing and canning operations. The Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site preserves Steveston’s fishing past with family-friendly tours, demonstrations, and hands-on activities that educate visitors on everything from traditional canning techniques and maritime skills to local heritage. Today, Steveston is a vibrant tourism destination dotted with locally owned boutiques, antique stores, restaurants and fish and chips shops, which capitalize on the freshly caught seafood available at the historic Fisherman’s Wharf. Britannia Brewing Co., across the street, is one such haunt. In addition to its selection of craft beer, the restaurant offers an inventive seafood-forward menu. Brooklyn and I shared the mussels and clams, truffle fries, and summer salad; however, there is plenty of choice for less adventurous eaters, including buttermilk fried chicken and burgers. 

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From Steveston, Uber to the McArthurGlen Designer Outlet, a sprawling outdoor shopping extravaganza one stop from YVR on the Canada Line. We visited the week leading up to Labour Day and were treated to incredible back-to-school sales of up to 50 per cent off the already discounted prices. The outlet is a melange of luxury brands and wallet-friendly finds, with The Children’s Place, Carter’s, OshKosh B’gosh, Sketchers, Gap and Old Navy most suitable for younger kids clothing, and UGG, Aritzia, Nike and Puma appealing to teens. The outdoor playground, with its shaded canopy, rubber ground surface, an S-shaped tube slide, and vertical climbing structures, is great for kids 12 and under. There’s also a cool light-up decorative water fountain, art installations and a continuum of low-flying planes overhead, which are an incredible sight – and deafening sound. 

Dinner options are vast and varied in Richmond. Eat at McArthur Glen for Vancouver’s famous Japadog hotdogs, Hugo’s Churo & Tacos or Bibo Pizzeria. If you’re up for another Uber ride, head to Yuu Japanese Tapas for the best made-from-scratch Ramen broth I’ve ever had – Brooklyn loved it, too. Or hop on the Canada Line for seven minutes for a relaxing, elevated dining experience at GlobeYVR while watching the planes land and take off outside the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows. Reservations are necessary, as the dining room and adjoining Jetside Lounge were packed at 6 p.m. on a Monday. Brooklyn made the most of her final year of ordering off the kid’s menu (for ages 6-12 and five and under eat for free), choosing the macaroni and cheese and campfire s’mores. Given the extensive multi-award-winning menu, my dinner decision took much longer. After much debate, I settled on the Piri Piri chicken, which was excellent, even though GlobeYVR is most celebrated for its seafood dishes.  

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Another hallmark activity for layover itineraries is the Richmond Night Market, open Friday through Sunday evenings (7 p.m. to midnight) from late April to mid-October. The open-air bazaar, located one block from Bridgeport Station, is a colourful cornucopia of sights, sounds, flavours and family-friendly entertainment – think live music, martial arts demonstrations and massive bouncy castles. A Fire Dragon Lantern Festival, coinciding with the mid-Autumn festival, runs through Oct. 14 and features a dazzling luminary display of handcrafted paper lanterns. General admission to the multicultural market is $8.50 per person, with free entrance for kids ages seven and under. 

Overnighting at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport makes layovers infinitely easier, especially when dreaded late-night or red-eye flights are involved. Firstly, it’s YVR’s only in-terminal option, which is hugely convenient, especially in the event of delays, which I’ve experienced during two of my stays. Secondly, the soundproofing is phenomenal, which is surprising given that the rooms overlook YVR runways. To combat the morning rush, we opt for in-room dining, eat breakfast in bed, watch the bustling airport operations scenery out the window, and play airplane eye-spy using Fairmont’s handy plane spotting guide – an activity that never gets old. And if time permits, we take one last swim in the pool to burn off excess energy before embarking on the next leg of our journey. 

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