Thursday, December 26, 2024

I Lived Out My Bookworm Dreams at This Historic Inn on Canada’s Prince Edward Island

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For some bookworms — of which I proudly count myself — Prince Edward Island in Canada is synonymous with “Anne of Green Gables.” Located between the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, PEI serves as the backdrop for L.M. Montgomery’s timeless tale and holds a cherished place in the hearts of book lovers across the globe. In the pages of the beloved tome, Montgomery, a PEI native, introduced readers to the precocious, ruddy-haired orphan, Anne Shirley. As a pre-teen, I read the fictional series and was captivated by Anne’s boundless imagination and the author’s charming descriptions of PEI.

Guided by this love of Montgomery’s writing and a longing to experience the world she artfully depicted, I embarked on a solo literary pilgrimage to Canada’s smallest province. I yearned to see the landscapes that shaped the writer and sparked my wanderlust many moons ago. 

After spending a day “nerding out” while visiting landmarks associated with Montgomery’s legacy, I headed to my home for the next two nights, Dalvay by the Sea. The hotel is within the Prince Edward Island National Park, about a half-hour drive from Charlottetown. Guests of this 25-room hotel will feel like they’ve entered a time capsule. Initially constructed in 1895 by a Scottish-born American oil magnate as a summer home, Dalvay by the Sea is today an example of Queen Anne Revival architecture and designated a National Historic Site.

Approaching the grand estate, I was immediately struck by the sweeping circular veranda overlooking Dalvay Lake. The distinctive cobblestone base of the building caught my eye — its artery-red hue reflected the sand on the beach a few yards away. Entering the lobby, the preserved woodwork along the walls, antique furnishings, and décor all work together. Dalvay by the Sea oozes with nostalgic elegance, and I couldn’t shake the feeling that I’d somehow stepped onto the pages of one of Montgomery’s cherished novels.

After checking in, I giggled as I autographed an old-school guestbook perched on a small stand. The clerk explained that although Wi-Fi could be accessed from anywhere on the property, there were no televisions, telephones, radios, or clocks in the guest rooms in the manor. I had a reservation for one of the three-bedroom cottages with a television. Despite having more tech, I opted to eschew any screen time and stick to my plan to unplug and enjoy my surroundings during my stay.

Read on for my review of Dalvay by the Sea.

Dalvay by the Sea

  • This historic hotel is an exquisite choice for guests who have made the pilgrimage to the island to honor the legacy of L.M. Montgomery, a famed author and PEI native.
  • Within walking distance to the beach, the 25-room inn is a Canadian National Historic Site inside the Prince Edward Island National Park of Canada.
  • Step back in time with a stay at this Queen Anne Revival-style property, built as a summer home in the late 1800s.
  • One of the draws to this hotel is that there are no televisions, phones, radios, or clocks in the rooms, allowing guests to unplug.
  • Don’t miss a chance to sit on the verandah overlooking Dalvay Lake while sipping the hotel’s complimentary welcome drink, cranberry iced tea.

The Rooms

There are 25 guest rooms in the main manor and eight three-bedroom cottages on the property. No two rooms are alike in this historic lodge. “Every room is unique because it’s an old inn,” the hotel’s general manager, David McDonald, said,

Each has vintage furnishings and features wooden accents. McDonald added, “Most of the people come here to unwind and to escape. We don’t have any phones, TVs, radios or clocks in the rooms. There’s no mini-fridges or microwaves or anything like that in the room.”

Three-bedroom cottages are within walking distance of the main hotel for those seeking more space and privacy. I stayed in one of the cottages with one bathroom. There were two bedrooms on the main level, and the master bedroom was upstairs in a loft overlooking the living room.

Unlike the 25 guest rooms in the manor, the cottages are equipped with a mini-fridge and television. 

“During peak season, the [rooms] start from $299, and the cottages go up to $625,” McDonald added.

Food and Drink

The property’s restaurant, the MacMillan Dining Room, serves tasty, stick-to-your-ribs cuisine that highlights the best local and garden-fresh ingredients, some grown and picked from the on-site garden.

My appetizer for the first night, the spring salad, was so delightful that I couldn’t resist ordering it for my final dinner. For the entrée, I enjoyed the crispy-skinned trout, complemented with a vegetable medley and smoked butter mashed potatoes. On the second night, I savored the prosciutto-wrapped chicken paired with black lentil risotto and a rich puttanesca sauce.

Although I only ate dinner, the restaurant also serves breakfast and lunch. Some breakfast offerings include eggs Benedict, a granola parfait, and the island breakfast, which features two eggs, Larkins sausage, house bacon, apple rosemary latkes, and sourdough toast. For lunch, guests can choose from a seafood hodgepodge, beet and goat salad, burgers, and more. There is also a full-service bar on site.

Activities and Experiences

Croquet hoops set up on the lawn.

Tykesha Burton/Travel + Leisure


The beach is a few feet from the inn, so you can enjoy a day near the Sea. Since the hotel is located inside a national park, there are several trails for hiking and cycling. Dalvay offers half-day bike rentals for $35 and full-day rentals for $60.

Several activities are on site, and visitors can engage in friendly games of croquet, horseshoe, ring toss, or bocce ball on the lawns. There’s also a tennis and pickleball court on site. Several vintage wooden board games are kept in the lobby for anyone who prefers to stay indoors.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Two of the eight cottages have wheelchair-accessible ramps and wheel-in showers.

Location

Dalvay by the Sea is inside the Prince Edward Island National Park, approximately 30 minutes from Charlottetown, PEI’s capital city. You must rent a car and get a National Park parking pass to get to the hotel. Read more on Prince Edward Island.

Dalvay by the Sea is seasonal hotel and is only open from early May to late October.

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