Sunday, November 17, 2024

The Eclectic Town That Hides in the Foothills of the Canadian Rockies

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At the western edge of the prairie provinces, amongst the first ripples of the Canadian Rockies, Bragg Creek blends distinct landscapes, seasons, and cultures. The core of this idyllic Alberta hamlet emanates an Old West aesthetic, with saloons and specialty shops adopting facades that harken back to the region’s early homesteading and prospecting days. At the same time, the quirky commercial center is sandwiched by the lands of the Tsuut’ina and Stoney-Nakoda nations, both of whom inject ancestral Indigenous textures into the otherwise cowboy-centric scene. As a long-time Calgarian, I made the 30-minute westward drive to Bragg Creek at every available opportunity. I can’t say enough about the hikes, campgrounds, saloons, and powwows that this eclectic place has to offer. Here is but a taste of the magic.

Where Is Bragg Creek Anyway?

The colorful, Old West style facades of Bragg Creek’s main commercial plaza. Photo: Andrew Douglas

Albertans, particularly post-pandemic, are rather smitten with their backyard. But it’s easy to forget that beyond the world-famous Banff National Park and the now-infamous Jasper (on account of 2024’s crippling wildfires), most foreigners are unfamiliar with the geography of Wild Rose Country, let alone a hamlet of only 432 people. So, in order to discover the riches of Bragg Creek for yourself, you will likely want to aim for the province’s largest city: Calgary. The host of the 1988 Winter Olympics sits just 45 kilometers east of Bragg Creek (tack on another 20 if traveling straight from the Calgary International Airport).

While an entire vacation could easily be spent within the cabins and campgrounds of Bragg Creek, visitors may also wish to visit the vibrant mountain towns of Canmore and Banff (which sit 90 and 115 km further west, respectively). The former is an ever-growing community from which the 4,000-square-kilometer bounty of Kananaskis Country can be explored, while the latter is a frozen-in-time base camp for its 6,641-square-kilometer namesake national park.

Bragg Creek Highlights

Shopping/Dining

Quaint shops and businesses of Bragg Creek's alternate commercial plaza
The Old West “Mall” just up the road from Bragg Creek’s main plaza. Photo: Andrew Douglas

The heart of Bragg Creek is its commercial plaza. Here, visitors can shop for handmade crafts, neat outfits, touristy trinkets, a good book, or everyday supplies. You can also sip some suds at the various saloons, top up on caffeine, grab a smoothie for the road, or sit down to a nice meal, perhaps on one of the patios that spill into the central parking lot. Don’t forget about The Old West Mall up the road, the adjacent community center/park, and the one-off creations across the street (i.e., Balsam Ave).

Bragg Creek Provincial Park

A gentle dirt trail cuts through a beautiful, sunny forest.
A gentle trail cuts through Bragg Creek Provincial Park. Photo: Andrew Douglas

While countless adventures await in the surrounding foothills, one need not stray far from civilization to get a sense of the stunning Elbow River Valley. Bragg Creek Provincial Park is a perfect introduction for anyone wanting to have a picnic in nature or stroll a simple trail. On your way in/out via the Heritage Mile, you will pass Ida Mays Ice Cream, Archer’s Antiques, The Bav + Tav, and the original Bragg Creek Trading Post (built in 1927), where early pioneers traded with the Nakoda tribe.

The Great Outdoors

Lay of the Land

A small waterfall known as Elbow Falls cuts through the rocks and evergreens of the Rocky Mountain foothills
The reserved brilliance of Elbow Falls. Photo: Irina Lipan

The broader Bragg Creek region is replete with trails, campgrounds, and day-use areas. The three main areas to focus on are West Bragg Creek, Highway 66’s portion of the Elbow River Valley (which runs just south of town), and the seasonal north/south access road known as Powderface Trail, which parallels the eastern aspect of Elbow-Sheep Wildland Provincial Park and Kananaskis Country as a whole.

Across the board, the local trail association maintains 166 kilometers of fair-weather multi-use trails, plus 60 kilometers of groomed cross-country ski routes for those cooler months. These days, hundreds of thousands of people traverse these systems each year. A far cry from busy Banff and its 4.3 million annual visitors, but I assure you, Bragg Creek’s wilderness can still feel quite crowded during the summer.

Suggested Experiences

A shirtless male runner poses beside the Prairie Mountain summit marker on a fine, partly cloudy day.
Yours truly after an exhilarating blitz up to the summit of Prairie Mountain. Photo: Irina Lipan

In terms of first-timer highlights, I recommend the one-two punch of Prairie Mountain and Elbow Falls. Both attractions share the same parking outlets (and boy, do they ever fill up quickly on weekends), and yet, they are polar opposite experiences. Prairie Mountain is an 8.4 km out-and-back grunt that gains 675 meters en route to the summit (5.2 miles and 2,214 feet for American visitors).

Prepare to have your legs throb as you climb through the forest and then jaw-drop as you break the treeline and stare down the front range of the Rocky Mountains. Elbow Falls, on the other hand, is a flat and enchanting meander along a well-trodden boardwalk. Though a tourist magnet (no doubt about that), there is always a section of shoreline to stake out where one can enjoy the babbling glacier waters in peace.

Campgrounds

A blue Ford Transit Connect camper van parked at a lovely campground in the Canadian Rockies.
Our tranquil site at Beaver Flat Campground. Photo: Andrew Douglas

In order to get the most out of your Bragg Creek experience, I recommend spending a night in nature. There are ample accessible campgrounds along Highway 66, as well as backcountry sites for those prepared to brave bear country (it’s really not that bad and also totally worth it). Personally, I love Beaver Flat and Little Elbow Campgrounds, but I have also appreciated my times at Paddy’s Flat and McLean Creek Campgrounds (the latter of which is favored by ATVers).

Whichever you choose, know that cell service is extremely limited (or non-existent), so hopefully, you can embrace an old-school immersion in nature. Don’t worry; those emails and social media channels will still be there when you get back to The Powderhorn Saloon.

Culture: Powwows and Rodeos

Indigenous performers take center stage before hundreds of onlookers at the Tsuut'ina Powwow
The action as seen from within the arbor at the Tsuut’ina Powwow. Photo: Andrew Douglas

The Tsuut’ina Nation is more than just a geographical neighbor to Bragg Creek; its members actively enhance the culture of Bragg Creek. For over 50 years, they have hosted the Tsuut’ina Annual Celebrations, which center around (among other things) a rodeo and powwow. Just two weeks after the Calgary Stampede concludes, riders saddle up at the Redwood Meadows Fairgrounds to keep the good times rolling.

At the same time, Indigenous dancers and drummers congregate under the traditional arbor to perform in front of their elders, tribal members, and spectators from all over. I had the pleasure of joining my friend and fellow World Atlas contributor, Morgan Black, for this year’s festivities, but everyone is encouraged to attend.

Parting Thoughts

Wildflowers, evergreens, open sky, and the glacial waters of Elbow River. Such is the scene at Beaver Flat Campground, and much of the broader Bragg Creek area
Wildflowers, evergreens, open sky, and the glacial waters of Elbow River. Such is the scene at Beaver Flat Campground, and much of the broader Bragg Creek area. Photo: Irina Lipan

Bragg Creek may be nestled in the foothills of the Canadian Rockies, but I wouldn’t exactly say it’s hiding, at least not anymore. Sure, the majority of international sightseers may beeline for Banff, but thanks to three years of rolling lockdowns, Albertans have perked up to the beauty of their backyard. Bragg Creek can easily contend with the most popular mountain towns in terms of outdoor recreation, plus it has a few cultural tricks up its sleeve. If you haven’t had a chance to check out this eclectic spot, cross-country ski season is now upon us, spring hiking season is just around the corner, and summer’s tourism swell can be thoughtfully managed by starting right now (hint, hint: get online and book those campsites).

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